A journey through tradition and taste with Sarawak Laksa

By Chai Xin Jie

Sarawak Laksa is one of Sarawak’s specialties, known for its unique flavour and rich ingredients. Sarawak Laksa’s fame has gone far beyond a regional limitation to become one of the internationally well-known dishes. Especially in 2015, famous international chef Anthony Bourdain shared a photo of Sarawak Laksa on his Instagram and dubbed it “Breakfast of Gods”. This act helped promote Sarawak Laksa's popularity and attracted more attention and curiosity. Since then, Sarawak Laksa’s international reputation has risen further, becoming a must-try for many food lovers. 

The essence of every bowl of Sarawak Laksa lies in the commitment and drive of the stall owner who skillfully prepares it. Karen Thian, a Sarawak Laksa stall owner, has used her mother’s laksa recipe for over 8 years at C3 Food Cafe, Kuching. The family recipe, a highly exclusive secret, combines a unique combination of spices and fresh ingredients, capturing the essence of Sarawak in each serving. Preserving this tradition is not just about following a recipe; it requires preserving a piece of their heritage.

The Sarawak Laksa stall owner, Karen Thian and her stall located at C3 Food Cafe, Kuching. Picture by Chai Xin Jie

Karen’s motivation to prepare laksa came from her family’s love for the food. Over time, her skill in cooking enhanced, and her laksa became a hit among friends and relatives. Motivated by the positive feedback, she decided to officially sell her laksa to promote its unique flavour to the public.

“We must adapt recipes to modern tastes and dietary trends. Conserving Sarawak Laksa’s culinary history is crucial due to its cultural and historical value. During adjustment, we'll blend innovation with tradition. We will adjust Sarawak Laksa to local preferences while keeping its basic ingredients and procedures. We can use yellow noodles instead of rice noodles and chicken thighs instead of shredded chicken for different diets. We want to balance innovation and tradition to improve Sarawak Laksa while preserving its culture,” Karen said.

“When my relative who was studying abroad returned to Kuching, he came to my house for laksa first. He said he missed my laksa when he was homesick. This nostalgia and affection for my dish strengthened my desire to prepare the best Sarawak Laksa,” she said. 

Sarawak Laksa provides a unique culinary experience for tourists and significantly boosts the income of Kuching hawkers. Sharing their experience through social media, the food has attracted many tourists and allowed them to learn more about Sarawak’s diverse culture. Laksa has become a bridge of cultural exchange, raising Sarawak's profile and boosting the local economy.

Nelson Goh Ser Earn, from Johor, West Malaysia, a young man who loves food. He said that last year, he came to Sarawak specifically to taste the local food. When he came to Sarawak for the first time, he was extremely excited about the food, especially the famous Sarawak Laksa. He was looking forward to tasting a bowl of delicious laksa, which is different from the West Malaysian laksa. 

Sarawak Laksa that is served with prawns and chicken thigh. Picture by Chai Xin Jie

“Tasting Sarawak Laksa is both delicious and cultural. Visitors can learn about Sarawak's culture and traditions, not only a tasty treat, but also a cultural exploration. By learning about the food’s history and how it is made, visitors can gain a deeper understanding of Sarawak's traditions and cultural background. During the process of tasting laksa, I felt the warmth and wisdom of the Sarawakian people which is not only a food; it's but also a cultural journey,” Nelson said. 

In Sarawak, laksa is not only a food but also a cultural symbol. Whether it is a family reunion, festival celebration, or daily breakfast, this unique bowl of laksa always evokes the warmest memories.

Sheila Chang Shan Ying, a local Sarawak resident, said that Sarawak Laksa is not just a food but a way of life. According to her, Sarawak Laksa is an essential part of the daily breakfast table, with long queues forming every morning in front of the laksa stalls on the street as everyone waits for a steaming bowl of laksa. 

Sheila mentioned that Sarawak Laksa is also a bond that connects family members. Whenever her family gathers for laksa, they share their stories and recent developments, and such scenes leave a deep impression on her mind. 

Another elder Sarawak resident, Phun Teck Soon, emphasised that some restaurants and hotels have also begun to focus on the cultural value of laksa, not only adding the dish to their menus but also introducing its history and preparation process. The aim is to make more people know and love laksa, thus preserving this unique food culture.

“The Sarawak government and tourist industry are also supporting Sarawak Laksa’s globalisation. National Unity Ministry (KPN) named Sarawak Laksa a 'heritage dish' in 2024. The yearly Kuching Food Festival draws many visitors and foodies to laksa. Such activities raise awareness of Sarawak Laksa and revitalize local cuisine culture,” Phun said.

“Sarawak Laksa is a cultural legacy and remembrance. Every Sarawakian will always cherish this meal, representing their love for their hometown. The community and organizations’ efforts give us hope that this distinctive cuisine will continue to shine.” she said.